Before being a symbol, a piece of jewellery is an architecture. A ring is composed of several elements, each with a precise name, a function, a story. Knowing them is to understand what distinguishes an ordinary piece from a true jewellery creation. It also means having the right vocabulary to speak with a jeweller, to commission a bespoke piece, or simply to choose a wedding band knowingly.
The centre stone
At the summit of the ring, the centre stone gathers light and gaze alike. At ORIGINE PARIS, this is an IGI-certified lab-grown diamond, cut to exact proportions and selected from VS minimum clarity, D colour, triple excellent cut. The round brilliant cut remains the most universal, but other cuts may be proposed: cushion, oval, emerald, pear. Each reveals the stone in a different way.
The prongs
The prongs hold the stone in place. Depending on the style of the piece, they may number four, six, sometimes eight. Their shape can be straight, drop-shaped, V-cut or sculpted. They must be strong enough to secure the stone without visually overshadowing it. This is one of the most delicate aspects of stone setting, and one of the first things to inspect when caring for an antique piece.
The head, or the basket
The head, also called the basket, is the structure that holds the stone and supports the setting. It is what gives the ring its characteristic silhouette when seen from the side. Its height, its volume and its openwork directly influence the way light passes through the diamond. A head that is too closed stifles the stone; one that is too open leaves it vulnerable. Everything is a matter of balance.
The setting
The setting is the metal support that directly carries the stone. A small ring or cup fitted to the diameter of the diamond, it cradles its base and contributes to the stability of the whole. It is a discreet element, almost invisible once the stone is set, yet essential to the precision of the mount.
The gallery
The gallery is the openwork space located beneath the stone, between the setting and the bridge. Often invisible to the eye, it is nonetheless one of the most revealing details of a jeweller's craftsmanship. A beautiful gallery is at once light, openwork and solid. It is also where certain houses tuck away a hidden signature, visible only to the woman who wears the piece. At ORIGINE PARIS, our stud earrings feature a double gallery with parallel wires, a discreet signature of the house.
The bridge
The bridge is the horizontal crosspiece located beneath the basket. It connects the back to the front of the mount and brings rigidity and stability to the whole. Often concealed beneath the diamond, it nonetheless reflects the care given to the inner architecture of the piece. A well-proportioned bridge ensures the longevity of the ring and the consistency of its wear.
The shoulders
The shoulders are the sloped parts that connect the basket to the band. They can be understated, pavé-set with diamonds, sculpted in scrolls, or fade away entirely to let all the light reach the stone. It is in this area that much of the elegance of a solitaire is decided. Shoulders that are too heavy weigh the piece down; shoulders that are too thin can make it fragile.
The band
The band, also called the shank, is the body of the ring, the part that encircles the finger. Its width, its thickness and its cross-section determine both comfort and aesthetics. A band can be round, flat, half-round, ribbon-shaped or sculpted. At ORIGINE PARIS, we work with bands whose inner profile is always slightly domed: this is what is known as comfort fit, a finish that hugs the finger without ever causing discomfort. All our mounts are crafted in recycled 18 carat gold, in our ateliers in Valenza and Lyon.
The sizing area
The sizing area is the lower inner part of the band, reserved for adjustment. This is where a jeweller can intervene with precision to fit the ring to the finger that will wear it, without altering the balance of the piece or affecting the stone setting. Designed from the outset, this area reflects a sustainable approach to jewellery: a piece must endure through time, follow the woman who wears it, adapt to the seasons of life.
The hallmarks
Beneath the band lie the hallmarks, marks engraved into the metal. The first indicates the gold fineness: 750 parts per thousand, or 18 carat gold. The second is the Origine Paris maker's mark, a signature recognised by the French State and guaranteeing the origin of the piece. These discreet marks are the equivalent of a handwritten signature: they authenticate the piece and engage the responsibility of the house that created it.
A vocabulary at the service of emotion
To know the anatomy of a ring is no idle technical exercise. It is to understand how a form comes into being, how a stone is honoured, how a gesture of craftsmanship becomes an intimate object. Behind each word lies a jeweller's decision, and behind each decision, the promise of a piece that will endure through time.